Hike and Wild Swim in the Albanian Alps

Your adventure kicks off at Tirana Airport, where you’ll hop on a bus and head north to Shkodër, the vibrant gateway to northern Albania. The drive takes you through the coastal basin, passing farmland, small towns, and rivers. Upon arrival, you’ll head straight to the lakeside village of Shirokë, where you can cool off with a swim in the warm lake waters or grab a light snack if you’re feeling peckish. Then it’s on to Shkodër, a city with over 2,500 years of history, nestled between two rivers, the largest lake in the Balkans, and the foothills of the Albanian Alps. As the day winds down, the city comes alive with the “xhiro”, an evening stroll through the pedestrian zone lined with cafés and bars. Afterwards, enjoy a delicious traditional Albanian dinner before settling in for the night. Please note that Shkodër is your last chance to pick up any last-minute supplies or store extra luggage before your trek officially begins tomorrow!

Leave the morning buzz of Shkodër behind as you drive through semi-rural villages along the shores of the largest lake in the Balkans, heading north toward the Montenegrin border. From there, the road winds through deep-cut valleys into the Albanian Alps. Upon arriving in Theth, your luggage will be loaded onto horses (soft bags only), and you’ll set off on one of the most scenic hikes in the Accursed Mountains, crossing from Theth to Valbona and passing from one national park to another. This trail is popular for good reason, so expect to meet other hikers along the way. From tomorrow, you’ll venture onto far wilder, rarely travelled paths. The hike begins through a shaded beech forest before gradually ascending to the famed Valbona Pass (1811m), where breathtaking 360° views of rugged peaks and deep valleys await. From here, the descent winds through picturesque meadows and steep, zigzagging paths, revealing untouched landscapes stretching as far as the eye can see. Reaching Valbona, you’ll hop into local transport for an adventurous ride through the dry riverbed to your accommodation, a simple but cosy, family-run guesthouse. Settle in, soak up the mountain views, and enjoy a well-earned home-cooked meal. That’s your first big hike complete!

After breakfast, your luggage is once again loaded onto horses, and you set off on foot straight from your accommodation. The trail leads into a glacial valley, carved by ancient ice flows descending from Mount Jezerca - the highest peak in the Accursed Mountains at 2692m. As you gain altitude, breathtaking views of the towering peaks unfold, while in spring, carpets of wildflowers paint the landscape in ever-changing colours. At 1650m, you’ll reach a former military hut, now used by shepherds. Until the early ’90s, this was a heavily restricted border zone, where any attempt to flee Albania was punishable by death. Today, only weathered border stones and stories shared by your guide serve as reminders of its dark past. Soon, you’ll arrive at a high mountain pass on the Montenegro border. Most hikers turn back here, but not you. Instead, you’ll cross the green border and continue into Montenegro. Weather and schedule permitting, your guide will lead you on an adventurous, partly trailless detour to a stunning glacial lake at the foot of Mount Jezerca, where the bravest can dare a dip in its ice-cold waters. If, for any reason, you skip this lake, there’s an alternative stop at a karst spring further down the valley. Finally, 4x4 vehicles await for a bumpy ride down the remote Ropojana Valley to the village of Vusanje. Tonight, you’ll settle into wooden bungalows, your family-run base for another night in the wild.

After breakfast, hop on a short ride from Vusanje to the small town of Gusinje, where a mosque, a Catholic church, and an Orthodox church stand close together, reflecting the diverse ethnic and religious mix of this Balkan border triangle between Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Soon, you’ll arrive at the breathtaking Grebaja Valley in Prokletije National Park, where sheer limestone peaks rise dramatically from the valley floor. While these jagged karst towers are reserved for climbers, you’ll set off on a stunning hike through beech forests, following one of the Balkans’ most spectacular ridge walks. The trail crosses a series of mini peaks, each offering an even more impressive view than the last. Eventually, you’ll reach Mount Taljanka (2057m), which marks the border with Albania and rewards you with a jaw-dropping 360° panorama over the remote Kelmend region - truly a postcard-perfect view! After a well-earned picnic break, descend, crossing the green border back into Albania. Passing the ruins of an old military barracks, you’ll continue through dense forest before arriving on foot in the village of Lëpushë. This is the highest settlement in Kelmend and your base for the next two nights. Tonight, you’ll settle into a cosy guesthouse with three bedrooms and shared bathrooms - your home in the heart of the Albanian Alps.

Today’s more easy-going hike takes you through some of Albania’s northernmost landscapes. Setting off from your guesthouse in Lëpushë, you’ll ascend towards the Bordoleci Pass (1347m), the highest point of the road through the Kelmend Valley. From here, follow the ridgeline with sweeping views behind you as you make your way towards Mount Greben (1840m). Its flat summit offers beautiful panoramas across the borderlands with Montenegro. Descending from the peak, you’ll reach a summer meadow where local families move during the school holidays - especially during the blueberry season from August onwards. If they’re around, you’ll have the chance to stop and learn more about their traditional pastoral lifestyle, a way of life that’s slowly disappearing. The path then leads down to Vermosh, Albania’s northernmost settlement, where you can cool off with a well-earned swim in the river. After relaxing by the water, a short transfer takes you back to your guesthouse in Lëpushë for some well-deserved downtime and another night in the mountains.

Your final hike of the week begins with a gentle uphill climb out of the village, leading towards the shoulder of the razor-edged Mount Golishti (2021m). Once a well-trodden path lined with summer meadows and frequented by mule caravans, it has grown quieter over the years as families move away and traditional mountain life fades. Without electricity or modern comforts, life up here is harsh but also a peaceful escape from the modern world - one of the reasons Kelmend was once called the “land of the living past.” While the Valbona Pass you trekked earlier in the week was a stunning introduction to the Accursed Mountains, it’s also one of the most popular hiking routes in the Balkans. Today, by contrast, you’ll follow rarely visited trails far from the crowds, enjoying the solitude of the mountains. Reaching the village of Nikc, you can stop for a well-earned drink before hopping into the minibus for a scenic drive down through the canyon towards Tamara, with a chance for a final swim in some inviting natural pools before heading back to Shkodër. Back in the city, you’ll return to the buzz of urban life and the comforts of civilisation. Tonight, raise a glass to an unforgettable journey across two countries, three national parks, and countless wild valleys - that’s your trek completed!

Time to say farewell as you head home or continue your travels. After breakfast, a group transfer departs from Shkodër to Tirana, with an estimated arrival at around 10:00. You can be dropped off at the airport for any flight departing after midday or in the city centre if you’d like to explore Tirana before catching a later flight, or even extend your trip with a city break.